Dingwall to Inverness ?

Yesterday was a long day, can't believe all the things I saw from leaving the motel at St. Ann's and arriving at Cape North (route on Google maps), yet it was only about 75 miles of driving !

Leaving the B&B on Wednesday 26th June 2013, I have to back track just a short distance, passing Tartan & Treasures again to head a bit further north off the main road.  That's because I wanted to visit Dingwall, with it being my nearest town at 50 miles away back home in Scotland.   There's certainly no similarity !
This sign is just after turning off the main road, but the settlement is a bit further.

(Click on small pictures to enlarge)

Which maybe why there's another sign a mile or so further on?

I did pass a cluster of houses before the road came alongside this inlet, this is actually looking out to sea.

It's more obvious a bit further on, the inlet is around that promontory to the left, whilst not far away it seems such a different landscape in just a short distance.

Now I have gone around to the other side of the inlet of Dingwall Harbour. so the road I was on is behind those properties and the sea view off the the left.

This highlights one of the differences between small harbours in the Highlands of Scotland and in Nova Scotia. The harbours in NS can often be a collection of individual jetties and mooring scattered throughout an area in a bay, rather than one central point and is usually the case in Scotland?

It is a very scattered community, but returning to near where I saw the 'Peaceful Fishing Village' sign this is one of the houses.

Across the road the rather forlorn looking Stardome Hall which has seen better days.

Time now to back track again and return to the main road, because beyond Dingwall there's no exit, it's remote roads to isolated settlements on the coast.

Back the short drive to the main road, I once again drive past Tartan & Treasures, also the track to my last B&B, less than half a mile beyond the main 'Cabot Trail' does a sharp left turn at its most northerly point.  Unfortunately my satnav had other ideas never uttered a word and I went straight on along the Gulf of St. Lawrence road !  

Fortunately I spotted the problem immediately and pulled across to a parking area to turn around.  It was then that I spotted I was outside the 
North Highlands Community Museum & Culture Centre.

What an amazing place this turned out to be, especially for a very small and scattered community, it really would have done any town proud, let alone this small remote population.  I was parked outside the 'Settlers Garden' so what better place to start?

Hay Barrack

Quoted from the Museum website:

The Settlers Garden is the product of a years intensive effort in design, construction and planting, culminating in the Grand Opening on August 3, 2008. 

The garden represents, in miniature, the natural and cultivated world of the early European settlers who made their homes in the North Highlands of Cape Breton.
Each of the ten individual gardens is a facet in a gemstone, and each may be seen as a source of food. 

There is nourishment for the body (the Fruit, Vegetable, Grain, and Cooking Herb gardens, as well as fruitful Native shrubs and trees); food for health and the spirit in Medicinal herbs; food for the soul in the old-world Heaths and Heathers; a feast for the eyes and food for nostalgia - in the Cottage Garden.

Inside the quality of displays and content of the displays is exceptional for this Community Museum.

 (Click on small pictures to enlarge them)

Being there early in the morning, actually the first person there, some of the activities weren't yet on the go, for example the Blacksmiths Forge, but a lot of other things happen there.  There's also access to the internet, wi-fi, and a Genealogy Centre too.

What struck me was there were three staff, all local teens or maybe early twenties at the most.  They were so enthusiastic, friendly and knowledgeable, with a keen interest in their local area, culture and history.  For a remote Community Museum, with such a splendid collection, they were a credit to their community just as much as the museum itself is a credit to the area.  

It's certainly a must visit location, so if you visit the area don't miss North Highlands Community Museum at Cape North (Google map location)

So far today I had only travelled about 5 miles which included backtracking to get to Dingwall initially (route) yet I've go over 200 miles to get to my B&B tonight.  So I have been to Dingwall, but I have to go to Inverness via Dunvegan, which in Scotland would be a lot further…... so better get on the road again !  

Heading North

After leaving the Gaelic College in the early afternoon, I'm heading north on the 'Cabot Trail'.  It's a circle around the north end of the island, for tourism purposes Cape Breton Island tends to be divided into several trails with various themes, but on my trip I wasn't actually following any of them.

When I left the motel and drove the short distance to the Gaelic College there wasn't anywhere to stop for breakfast, early afternoon and I still haven't found anywhere! Just as well I have a cool bag in the back with bananas & apples, as well as a large water container to top up my bottle.  Over the coming miles I spotted two places, but first the chef was away for 3 hours, so nothing there, the next stop would be open tomorrow !

The road north is quite sparsely populated, mostly woodland to the sides of the road with occasional glances to the sea on my right.  In the middle of nowhere on this road you find a clearing in the trees and an 'Artisan', as they are referred to in these parts.  First was here on Google map street view which was mainly metalwork and some photographs, their website  'Iron Art & Photographs'

A bit further north there's a pewter workshop & shop at Piper Pewter ,  and not far away Colouratura Art Gallery featuring a variety of local artists with a wide range of media and styles.  It was there that owner Ian Green, originally from Yorkshire, as usual asked me where I was from and came to that usual query, "How far is that from Assynt?"

As usual my part of the conversation went into what had happened there 20 years ago with the Assynt Crofters eventually buying their land, with me following it for TV news and then as a year long documentary. At that point Ian says there's to be the premiere of a new play on the folks leaving Assynt and how they settled in Cape Breton.  It's to be at the Gaelic College on Tuesday 2nd July and the following night too, and I should come to it.  Unfortunately, as I pointed out, I was intending to leave Cape Breton the next day and would be making my way to the opposite end of Nova Scotia, maybe Yarmouth 400 miles away.

Then Ian turned and picked up a folder, "This is the script of the play, could you read this page, tell me if it's a good description of Assynt because none of have been there".  I read through the script and it seemed a good description of the area and apologised for not being able to attend.  However, I did ask him as I left if I could photograph the poster for the play in the entrance of his gallery.  That would be at least a memory, but I did not realise what news I would get on the evening of the next day.....

Ian Green & his partner Penny Steele run a very well recommended B&B English Country Garden but I had already booked a B&B that night further north.

I'm not someone that regularly has pizza, but when it's 2pm and you haven't had even had breakfast I was glad I spotted this log cabin!

Just a lady by herself, it would be 20 minutes because she starts from scratch, and it was well worth the wait, I sat on the veranda to eat it.  When I asked if it was seasonal she said it was in the past when she worked there, but they had bought it off the previous owner, and rebuilt it.  Now she was getting locals from 45 minutes drive in one direction and 90 minutes drive the other way !  Because of such local support she reckons it may be viable to stay open all year, I do hope it's a success.

Along the road not too far away is Leather Works from where I bought a leather belt and several other items.  Further north came 'The Clucking Hen' cafe & bakery, so although not long after my pizza I thought it time for at least a cup of tea.  They had free wi-fi which was another attraction to catch up on emails, but happened to coincide with a friend being online from Los Angeles Airport on Skype, so we had a quick chat !

To the side of the cafe by the trees is the block of post boxes for Post Canada, unlike ones in the US these are a tidy unit for people in this remote area to collect their post.  In the US there tends to be a line of different types of  boxes on poles with their addresses scrawled in them. Very individual and quite quaint, but this version will certainly be easier for the postman.

Onwards to the north, not far from my B&B for the nights and as I come around the bend in a misty drizzle there's 'Tartans & Treasures' shop

Once I go inside what do I spot but 'Lochcarron Weavers' signs again !  The owner kindly permitted me to take these interior pictures. (click to enlarge)

As I leave Tartans & Treasures my B&B is only a mile down the road up a track on the right.

It's at Country Haven B&B , in Cape North.  Owners Alfred & Kathleen designed and built the house, both their families originated from the Outer Hebrides.

The end of a long day, called at so many places, met great people and seen some interesting things too.  Tomorrow will be rather strange, I'll be driving from Dingwall to Inverness, via Dunvegan !  But that's for the next update....

This is the route on Google maps

Lochcarron Weavers?

In the last post I had arrived at the Gaelic College at St. Ann's on Cape Breton Island.  It's where Rev. Norman MacLeod eventually arrived with his congregation after leaving Assynt in the Highlands of Scotland. In the Great Hall of the Clans is an exhibition area which follows his journey and arrival, with another section showing how the settlers progressed in their new surroundings.

Whilst I saw the two exhibition areas the main hall area had work going on for future events, but there was still plenty to see.

Of course the Gaelic College is much more than an exhibition, it's mainly an educational establishment.  Included within its activities are short courses demonstrating the culture that was brought by the settlers.

Here is a group learning about the  'Gaelic Milling Frolic', singing as they work the material. However, this is what I have always known as a 'Waulking Song', perhaps the term is different in various parts of the Highlands of Scotland, as is often the case?

At the far end of the table, in red & black is Chief Executive Officer of the Gaelic College, Rodney MacDonald.  When I did an interview with him he described himself as politician, CEO & fiddler, and you can see him talking about fiddle music below, and he's also a step dancer too !

Rodney MacDonald was Premier of Nova Scotia from 2006/9, but I think it's fair to say he doesn't take himself too seriously as you can see on this video online .  He's a well known fiddler, he's playing on this link and a bit of Gaelic thrown in too !  As I mentioned I did do an audio interview with Rodney which I will get online later.

You may recall earlier I mentioned a Lochcarron connection?  When I walked through the front door at the Gaelic College the reception area and gift shop are together.  As everywhere in these parts they welcome you and when we got to being asked the actual village I was from and said "Lochcarron", this was when I got the immediate response "Lochcarron Weavers".  I was immediately ushered to the side of the shop and there was Lochcarron Weavers tartan items for sale and their pattern books!

I asked if they had the Lochcarron tartan, but it wasn't even in their sample books.  I had a tie in my vehicle to give to someone, so brought it in to show the staff.  They had never seen it before, and asked if they could show their kiltmaker.  Within a few minutes the receptionist returned and said the kiltmaker would like to meet me.

Master kilt-maker, Ann Cantwell, boasts over 20 years of experience making one-of- a-kind, hand sewn kilts.  She has created kilts for Canadian dignitaries, films such as Disney's The Princess Diaries, and regularly ships fine tartan hand crafted products all over the world. 

An assistant makes ties that are sold downstairs at the shop in their own packaging, which you can see above in the middle of the 3 pictures of the shop.

The visit to the Gaelic College lasted about 4 hours, a great experience, wonderful folks I met there too.  Outside in the heat piper Ian was still playing, we had another chat.  Turned out I knew of of his bagpipe tutors from Scotland that had visited the College.  Because of the connections with the Gaelic College in Skye he played the Skye Boat song for me, which I recorded and will add to the site later.

It's now early afternoon and time to head towards the north tip of Cape Breton Island along the Cabot Trail ...

How far is that from Assynt?

It's time to leave St Ann's Motel at South Haven, Cape Breton Island.  

As the eagle flies away across St Ann's Bay, I head only a short distance to the other side of the bay.

In fact it's only just over half a mile away, past the restaurant, over the causeway then up the hill with woodland on either side as on the map, there's a few clues there too ! Check it on the map, I'm travelling from A to B, there's a few clues there too !

Around the corner there's a sound of bagpipes, a solitary piper is playing, initially it's as though he's in the middle of nowhere !

Then it becomes clear that he's by the entrance to a car park, turns out he plays there all day, despite the heat and humidity, even when I arrive at 9am this sunny morning.

It's an impressive frontage to the Gaelic College, as most buildings I've seen in my journey so far it's mainly built of wood. The grounds and surroundings are beautifully maintained. This was just a few days before the celebrations commenced for the 75th anniversary of the founding of the College.  More about that another time !

The questions I have been asked so far on this trip start by querying where I are from, which I start by answering "Scotland", but I had already discovered it would never end there !  My next reply would be "North West Highlands of Scotland", which on further enquiry became "On the West coast mainland, but near the Isle of Skye".  

That would satisfy most folks you meet when travelling, but not in Nova Scotia, and especially on Cape Breton Island.  Which village? "Lochcarron", to which you then get the response "Ah yes, Lochcarron Weavers !". They do indeed immediately associate the village with Lochcarron Weavers, there seems to be more tartan in Nova Scotia than in Scotland!
But more of the Lochcarron Weavers connection later, because there's still another question that will follow mention of Lochcarron.  "How far is that from Assynt?"

Now I'm sure that for anyone living in the Lochcarron area that would come as an unusual question, indeed when I ask around in the village quite a few people have heard of  Assynt, but aren't sure where it is. I'm maybe one of the few who could immediately answer that it's 110 miles north by road from Lochcarron, it's just north of Lochinver, and extends nearly to Kylesku.  

Assynt is etched on my mind, I drove there and back many times twenty years ago, but why? Perhaps for those that still don't know, there's a clue immediately behind the Gaelic College, in fact look through that open door in the picture above, the circle and rectangle beyond the persons hand.  So let's have a closer look ...

The answer is right there on that plaque, indeed there's one commemorating the same event back in Assynt.  When the one in Scotland was unveiled around 20 years ago the St. Ann's Pipe Band from the Gaelic College, Cape Bretton Island, was there is Scotland.  
Need another clue, let's have a closer look at the text on the this plaque ...

For anyone having difficulty reading it, the top / English version reads:

"Reverend Norman McLeod  1780 - 1886

As clergyman, schoolmaster and magistrate, he moulded the characters of this community for a generation. Born at Stoer Point, Assynt, Scotland, he emigrated to Pictou in 1817; led his band of Scots to St. Ann in 1820, and remained here until 1851, when he again led his followers first to Australia and finally to New Zealand."  (Then follows the Gaelic version)

At the time of the unveiling in Assynt I was there covering it for TV news, but of course this actually followed another very significant time in Scottish history of land reform at Assynt. When the estate decided to sell the estate land it was to be in small lots, but the community had other ideas, their aim was to buy the entire estate for themselves.  

Such a buy-out had never happened before, it drew worldwide attention, and I was to & fro constantly for updates as the TV news cameraman covering the area.  They did eventually get the land, I was there that night too in the tiny schoolroom, it was a momentous event that changed land ownership forever in Scotland.  

For the first year I followed the progress of their management of the estate for a documentary, being the sole cameraman and sound recordist for the complete programme.  It was broadcast by Grampian TV as a 'North Tonight Special' on 18th November 1993 with the title 'Great Day at Split Rock'.   A reference to the huge split rock on the coastline.   Unfortunately, whilst I have a copy of the broadcast, now transferred to digital, I cannot show it here due to copyright restrictions.

Your can read here more of the Assynt Crofters' Trust and about the area generally at Discover Assynt.

So by now you will realise the interest of the people on Nova Scotia in Assynt, the site of the Gaelic College is where those settlers set up home and introduced Gaelic to the area as well as introducing the Highland culture.  Of course I was telling them about the buyout that happened so long after people left Scotland for a new life in Canada.  Consequently I felt I had a great connection with the area, but this story does not end there, an unexpected but related event changed part of my trip in the days to come.

Now for some more pictures of the college, this is MacKenzie Hall

This is the rear of the entrance block, that's nearest the road, the Rev. Norman MacLeod memorial can be seen towards the left by the door

There's a lot more to the Gaelic College and what happens there, again with some very local connections, but that's for next time...

The eagle has landed

After leaving the Highland Village Museum it had been my intention to travel the more minor road to the west side of Bras d'Or Lake, which strictly is an inland sea.  However, having spent more time there than intended I decided on the east coast route which takes in part of the Trans Canada Highway, if I was to turn left instead of right I could end up in Vancouver 4,000 miles away !  

Of course there's another hurdle to negotiate at Little Narrows cable ferry to get to the main road on this shorter route, but this is a busier one and runs 24 hours a day on demand.

If you want to see where I am on the map, it's here on Google maps, A is Iona, where I left the Highland Village Museum; B is Little Narrows Ferry; C is the St Ann's Motel, South Haven.

However, if you zoom in on the map to the ferry location, your may spot I'm in Aberdeen !
Although I'm now travelling north on the Trans Canada Highway, it's not busy, more just a normal two way road mainly with woodland to the sides and now and again  Bras d'Or Lake can be seen on my right. 

It takes me by Baddeck which is often called the centre of Cape Breton Island, with quite a tourist orientated small town.  Nearby is the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site of Canada which is for a visit in the future, but you can check it out on the link.

Another place I didn't manage to visit but went past is at Wagmatcook. With a population 700 people living in the small village of Wagmatcook First Nation, the community straddles the Bras D'or Lakes and is one of five Mi'kmaw First Nation communities of Unama'ki (Cape Breton Island)  You will find more information on the link about the original people who inhabited this part of Canada.  This is a quote I like from their website:

"Treat the earth well,

It was not given to you by your parents,

It was loaned to you by your children"

Onwards now to my stop for the night at St Ann's Motel, South Haven.  It's in a wonderful spot, but it's not the lake, but an inlet from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with views from your window out to sea. Doug & Christine run it as a family business, they are a lovely couple who are dedicated to their job.  The rooms are beautifully appointed and presented. 

You can better appreciate the location from this aerial picture from the motel website.
The only other property in sight is the Lobster Galley Restaurant next door.

The view from my window later evening

Next morning St Ann's Motel owner Doug came to me as I was packing the vehicle to tell me the eagle was about and if I got my camera and waited by the window in my room I might spot him come to the area between the motel and the sea.  I few minutes later I saw him swoop in and settle just outside my window, now that's a first for room views !!!

So 'The Eagle has Landed', next stop for me is just a short distance away, but that's for next time, more soon ....  ....